Safari Jacket / Sewing detail

Sewing the inverted back pleats

I love this safari jacket pattern. It has a way of making all sorts of figures look good, even with a full waist.

I made the first version in sturdy fabric, with a slightly sporty feel, and it became a travelling jacket. Now I’m making it again in very light silk for everyday walks in our hot climate.

Safari jacket I made from this pattern.

Most of the jacket is straightforward to sew. The tricky part is the pair of inverted pleats below the back yoke, so that’s what I’m showing here.

Close view of the yoke and the two inverted back pleats. — The two inverted pleats below the back yoke.

Cut the back pieces

I’m using the back pieces from my safari jacket pattern: the yoke, centre back and side backs. The centre back is cut on the fold, with a pleat where it meets each side back.

In this version, the pleats are about 23 cm long, with about 2 cm extra at the base for securing them. Below each pleat, the join continues as an ordinary seam. The turquoise photographs show one side of the back.

The supplied back-pattern excerpt showing the yoke, centre back cut on the fold and side back with pleat allowances. — The yoke, centre back and side back from my safari jacket pattern.

Separate turquoise centre-back and side-back fabric pieces. — The centre-back and side-back pieces before joining.

Step 1: Join the upper section

Join the centre-back and side-back pieces along the shoulder-blade section. Leave the lower edges separate.

Joined shoulder-blade section with the lower portions of the back pieces still separate. — The upper section is joined; the lower edges remain apart.

Step 2: Sew the lower seam

Join the lower section of the same seam. Leave the short crosswise opening at the base of the pleat unstitched.

Close-up of the unstitched crosswise opening between the upper and lower seams. — The small opening between the two sewn sections remains free.

Step 3: Fold and press the pleat

Fold the 2.5 cm pleat allowances inward, bringing the folded edges together at the centre of the pleat. Press.

Inside view of the pressed inverted pleat. — The pleat pressed from the inside.

Outside view with the two folded edges meeting. — The folded edges meet on the outside.

Step 4: Topstitch each side separately

Topstitch each side of the pleat separately, 7 mm from the fold. Keep the jacket body underneath clear of the stitching so the pleat remains free to open.

Two rows of topstitching along the separate folded edges. — The two folded edges after topstitching.

Step 5: Secure the lower end

Lay the pleat flat in its pressed position. Stitch across its lower end and the short crosswise opening, then continue the same line of topstitching down the lower back seam.

Completed lower pleat fastening and the topstitching continuing down the back seam. — The stitching crosses the pleat base, then continues down the seam.

Step 6: Secure the top

Secure the top 1.5 cm of the pleat before attaching the yoke. Repeat on the other side.

Top of the inverted pleat secured at the yoke edge. — The upper end is secured, ready for the yoke.

For next time

I tried several ways of sewing these pleats before settling on this one. I don’t make them every day, so these steps are a useful reminder for me, too.

The pattern behind this jacket is on my safari jacket page, and also in my portfolio on Adobe Stock.